French Roadtrip Part 5- Another Loire Châteaux

After two nights at the perfectly placed Camping de Moulin Fort it was time to move further up the Loire Valley to be within cycling distance of another Chateau on our bucket list, Chateau de Chambord, but before we arrived there another one was due to be visited on the way.

The planned driving route took us virtually past the front door of yet another Chateau that was not to be missed, so with time to spare before check in at our next site we found ourselves parking up in the village of Cheverny.

The village aswell as the motorhome park up was virtually deserted so no problem in finding a space for our 8m long vehicle. There is also an area next to the designated parking that appeared to be for overnight stays as it had a service point and we could see that this was nearly full. A short walk down the village street brought us to the elaborately gated entrance of Chateau de Cheverny. After paying our entry fee at the shop we were given a site map and guide and stepped back out into the warm May sunshine to explore this French gem. Yet another stunning vista awaited us as we walked along the pathways and rounded a corner.

The Chateau was one of the first French stately homes to open to the public in 1922 and the estate has been owned by the same family for more than 6 centuries, although the Chateau itself has slipped out of their hands twice in that time. Once being bought by Diane de Poitiers after she was ousted from Chenonceau by Catherine de Medici. It was bought back by the Marquis de Vibraye in 1825 and so returned to the Hurault family whose descendants now live in the apartments in the right wing. Whether it’s because it still is partly a family home but we thought it felt intimate and homely even though it is stunning on a grand scale.

In 1943 Herge, the author of Tintin, was inspired by the architecture of Cheverny when he created Marlingspike Hall for his comic book strips. There is a Tintin museum located in the former stables and a large shop as you leave, which was a great bonus for Steve and kept him entertained whilst I took a tour of the beautiful flower filled gardens. Strangely this was our holidays’ second encounter with Tintin as there was also a shop on the quayside in St Martin on Il de Re that we had discovered a few days before.

Cheverny is also an important hunting venue. The onsite kennels house about a hundred French hounds, each with V for Vibraye shorn into its right flank. One or two were lounging around their compound in the full sun but most were taking shelter in the shade against the kennels.

The 18th century Orangery now houses a cafe where we enjoyed our lunch surrounded by its decadent gold furnishings. As with many Chateaux this Orangery building was used to hide the nations art and valuable property during the Second World War, most notably apparently the Mona Lisa.

After we had toured the Chateau, its gardens, Tintin museum and had lunch, time was marching on and we could now check in to our next campsite. We reluctantly left the stunning vistas of Cheverny and took to the road heading for Bracieux. A short drive later we arrived at Camping Huttopia les Chateaux, a fairly large site situated in a forest. After having to inform the reception that we couldn’t fit on the pitch they had initially reserved for us, we ended up on a large sunny pitch with its own picnic table, what a bonus. The site has a bar, restaurant, bike hire, swimmimg pool and playground, alot of amenities but it felt spacious and quiet out of the main holiday season. The pitches were all lush grass making a change from the dusty patches you usually encounter on European sites. Chilling out in the last of the evening sun we had a bbq and plenty of wine to round off another amazing day of our French roadtrip holiday.

Read the next and final part of our French Roadtrip blog as we cycle through the forest to Chateau de Chambord and our trip comes to its end.

French Roadtrip Part 4 – Loire Valley Chateaux

Driving back across the Pont de L’ile de Re we waved goodbye to  4 magical days on the Isle promising to return again soon to explore more of its beautiful countryside, culture, beaches and villages. It certainly hasn’t seen the last of us, but for this trip it was now time to move on to our next destination. The Loire Valley and visiting its Chateaux were next on our plans.

The Autoroutes were once again kind to us navigating around La Rochelle and heading North East towards Tours, within a couple of hours the scenery was changing and we were seeing signs for Chateaux. Our Campsite for 2 nights was Camping Le Moulin Fort a CAMC recommended site located alongside Le Cher river at Francueil.

The site was in a superb location being only 10 minutes cycle ride to Chateau de Chenonceau which had been a must see on my bucket list for years. A dream of mine as an avid photographer being to capture the arches spanning the river.

We soon settled on our allocated pitch which was large and flat with just the right amount of tree shade to enjoy dappled sunlight for most of the day. It was a bonus when our neighbours arrived back who were English and had been coming to this site for the last 30 years so knew all there was to know about the area. The rest of the day was spent enjoying their lovely company and partaking of some very lovely wine.

The following day we offloaded the bikes from the motorhome and pedalled the short distance alongside the river to Chenonceau. Being a Sunday we hoped that it wasn’t going to be too overcrowded but despite the many coaches in the capark it was surprisingly crowd free. The grounds and Chateau are so vast there was plenty of room for all. The avenue of tall plane trees leading to the Chateau set the scene for a view on a grand scale. Emerging from under their shade we were met with a fairytale scene of towers, turrets and balconies, their white stone facades blindingly bright against the brilliant blue sky. I was in photo heaven.

The Chateau was built in the 16th century on the former site of a fortified castle and mill owned by the Marques family. Only the keep- The Marquess Tower- was left standing which they restored in Renaissance style. Chenonceau is known as the Ladies’ Chateau as throughout its history females have played the most prominent role in restoring and embellishing the complex and its gardens. One such lady was Diane de Poitiers, being King Henry II favourite lady and who he gave Chenonceau to in 1547. She commissioned the famous arched bridge over the River Cher making the architecture of Chenonceau unique in the world. Then lo and behold Catherine de Medici- who was King Henry II widow, exchanged Chaumont-sur-Loire with Diane for Chenonceau and had a gallery built on top of the bridge to be used as a Ballroom. It is 60m long and has 18 windows. During the second World War the River Cher was the line of demarcation between occupied and unoccupied zones. The main entrance to the Chateau was on the right bank in the occupied zone and the South door of the Gallery gave access to the left bank so making it possible for the Resistance to pass many numbers of people through it and into the free zone.

The Gallery Ballroom

We continued our tour of the many rooms inside, walls elaborately decorated with tapestries, ceilings panelled and intricately painted, and four poster beds far too small for an adult of today’s average height.

Stepping back out into the dazzling sunshine we toured the immaculate formal gardens, vegetable and flower gardens, the maze, orangery, apothecary, wine cellars and donkeys in a buttercup meadow.

After spending some time with the donkeys we reluctantly wound our way back to the bike park and cycled back to the site, collapsing in our deckchairs with a welcome cool drink and reflecting on an amazing day.

As the sun was setting we were treated to a display of hot air balloons slowly gliding along the course of the river and over the Chateau. Now that’s the photo I wish I’d snapped!

Catch the next and final blog of our French Roadtrip Part 5- More Châteaux and Heading for Home